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Kaliakra |
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Location |
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| Kavarna is just 18 kilometers up the coast
from Balchik . |
Information |
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KAVARNA
Kavarna's ancient history parallels that of most of the other coastal towns.
Known by the Thracians as Bizone, their settlement was colonized by 5th
century b.c. Greeks, most likely Messembrians, to counter the trade influence
of nearby rival Krunoi (Balchik). Four hundred years
later, the town was destroyed by an earthquake. The Romans and Byzantines
came and went with the Bulgarians taking control in the 7th century.
The present-day name of the town comes from Karvuna, which the Dobrudzha
region was known as during the 14th century when it was an independent principality.
The ruler Balik and his heirs, most notably his son Dobrotitsa, were powerful
local boyars. To appease them, the Bulgarian tsars granted concessions,
including a measure of independence. The nobles even had their own warships
with which they flexed their political and military muscles against the
likes of Genoa and other trading partners.
Although Kavarna is just 18 kilometers up the coast from Balchik
it has been largely overlooked by tourists and not without reason. The town,
which is three kilometers inland from the sea, lacks both the setting and
sights that account for Balchik's popularity. Kavarna is a motley mix of
residential and industrial areas, with about the only things breaking up
the tedium being a centrally-situated park and pedestrian shopping area.
The harbor's naturally scenic setting is marred by a shoreline of dilapidated
buildings, including an eyesore shanty town precariously perched on the
steep hillside that looks as if it could tumble into the sea at any moment.
The only new structure is a wedding-cake shaped hotel which looks incongruously
out of place. With no real beach to speak of, the only distinctive natural
feature is a huge crag looming up at the harbor's southern end. Called "candlestick,"
it fittingly enough once served as a beacon for ships. A large silo at the
base of the crag provides the only visible evidence that this was once the
Dobrudzha's main port through which most of its grain was exported.
Nearby is a camping complex, Morska Zvezda (Sea Star) with over 100 toll
house-sized bungalows ($7 per person, full board), two restaurants and a
hotel ($28 double, full board), all arranged in circular fashion around
a small central area. Although the location is decent enough, the facilities
- which include a pool - are very close together and over-priced to boot.
The cheek-to-jowl accommodations lend themselves to loud group partying
but little else. With the unremarkable town beach a half-kilometer away,
about the only reason to stay here is as a stop-over on the way to somewhere
else.
Probably the most interesting thing to see in town is the Historical Museum
(three blocks south of Hotel Dobrotitsa, tel 0570/5045). Located in an old
mosque, there are the usual antiquities plus an exhibit on the significant
role played by the local ruler, Balik. Nearby, also on Chernomorska, is
a small art gallery (tel 4236) which features changing exhibitions with
sea motifs. Of the two hotels, the Dobrotitsa (#22 Dobrudzha opposite the
park, tel 2396) is the better bet. But unless you're looking to buy an industrial
backhoe, which are manufactured in prodigious numbers here, the best bet
is to get out of town.
Vicinity
While Kavarna leaves much to be desired, the area around it has much to
recommend it. Heading east toward Cape Kaliakra the road goes through thickets
of dwarf pine and past a prominent statue of two grape-pickers - although
the vineyards stretching in all directions are testimony enough to the grape's
importance. Also visible are some of the 147 Thracian tumuli which dot the
region. While these have all been catalogued, lack of funds precludes most
from being fully explored. The pleasant village of BULGAREVO, with its bright
red-tile roofed houses and colorful vegetable and flower plots, provides
a welcome respite after the depressing blight of Kavarna. This is as far
as public transportation goes toward Kaliakra and the six kilometer road,
while a straight shot, makes for a long hike or a tough bike ride battling
the normally strong headwinds and breakneck-speed drivers.
KALIAKRA CAPE
This two-kilometer long promontory, with sheer cliffs that drop 70 meters
to the sea below, is arguably the single most spectacular natural sight
of the entire coast. It's also a history and nature preserve of national
significance. The name means "beautiful cape," due to the abundant
pink limestone. Legend has it that the color is from the blood of the defenders
of the fortress, which was built in the 4th century b.c. and later used
by the Romans and Byzantines. It was further fortified by the boyar Balik
who had shafts bored down through the rock so the stronghold could be supplied
from the sea. During medieval times it served as a dervish monastery.
According to one well-known legend, after the fall of the fortress to the
attacking Ottomans in the 14th century all those inside were put to death.
Rather than succumb to the invaders (and perhaps suffer a fate "worse
than death") forty maidens braided their hair together and jumped to
their deaths in the sea below. The limestone cliffs contain red stains said
to be the blood of the maidens. Today, an obelisk stands near an opening
in the rock called "the gate of the 40 maidens" which memorializes
this apocryphal event (a virtually identical tale exists about the Devin
fortress in the Rhodope mountains; undoubtedly, there are other locales
with their own similar versions).
Another local legend tells of St Nikola, patron saint of sailors (as well
as orphans and, curiously enough, bankers). As he ran towards the sea to
escape his Turkish pursuers, the land kept stretching under Nikola's feet
- but to no avail, as he was eventually caught and killed. At the very tip
of the cape is a small chapel, restored in 1993, to mark his symbolic grave.
The tiny sanctuary affords a stunning panorama view of the coastal cliffs
and the sea which shouldn't be missed.
The cape is also the locale of several historic sea battles. In 1791 Russian
admiral Ushakov defeated the Ottoman fleet. During the Balkan War of 1912,
the Bulgarian torpedo boat Druzki crippled the Turkish cruiser Hamidie in
what would prove to be the Bulgarian navy's finest hour.
Today, the thin cape shares its limited space with a small naval installation
and several tourist sights, so sailors mingle in close quarters with camera-toting
visitors. From the parking lot, a narrow one-lane road winds through an
arched gate of the remarkably well-restored fortress walls. The unobstructed
360 degree views underline the strategic importance of this once heavily
fortified redoubt. Several hundred meters further the road ends in front
of the naval installation. A set of stairs leads down to a restaurant inside
a large cave. The restaurant offers good food, reasonable prices, and -
from the adjoining terrace - gorgeous views. The cliffs of limestone and
sandstone stretch to the horizon, their reddish tone gradually giving way
to white and the beginning of the "silver" coast. More than 200
feet below in the bay, local fishermen check the daily catch in their drift
nets, the putt-putt of their boats faintly audible in the distance.
Next to the restaurant, a much smaller cave houses an archaeological museum
(daily 10am-7pm, admission included as part of $1 park entrance fee). The
unique locale is complemented by the attractive displays, with 4th-6th century
earthenware jugs and amphorae cleverly arranged in sand. A glass case features
jewelry items from a medieval necropolis. Starlings dart to and fro from
their nests in the walls and ceiling above. Outside, a path continues .down
toward the St Nikola chapel. In front of the tiny sanctuary (the interior
and icons are viewed through an iron gate) is a wall plaque bearing the
legend - in Bulgarian only - of the forty maidens. A few steps away is a
small, partially enclosed vault-shaped area with seats carved out of rock.
Should you be lucky enough to be here on a non-crowded day, linger a while
in this shaded, serene place and contemplate the stunning views.
Something else to contemplate is what was said of the area by a Turkish
traveler of several centuries ago, one Evliya Effendi (as quoted by Konstantin
Jirecek in his book Travels in Bulgaria): "Below the fortress of Kiltra
(Kaliakra) which Sultan Mussa took away from the infidels, the Dervish Monastery
stood and near it, one of the seven graves of the Muslim Saint Sarasaltukede,
seen in different parts of the world. This grave was in the cave in which
the saint was said to have slain a seven-headed dragon, thus freeing two
royal princesses who were imprisoned here: a feat which helped to spread
Islam in this country. The Christians worshipped this Islamic saint under
the name of Patriarch Saint Nicholas."
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| kaliakra, maria |
| this is one of the many magicals places in bulgaria,that you certainly must visit. the place is so beautiful and the legend of the bulgarian maidens so capturing. |
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